Writing

I write for both academic and general public audiences. For the most recent and complete list of academic publications, see UGent bibliography. For general public work, see Google Arts & Culture and Vogue Online below.

Academic Writing

BOOKS

Fashion, Society, and the First World War: International Perspectives, ed. Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, Sophie Kurkdjian. Bloomsbury, 2021.

French Fashion, Women, and the First World War. With Sophie Kurdkjian. Yale University Press, 2019.

Named a 2020 50 Books | 50 Covers award winner by the AIGA, the professional association for design. Awarded First Prize for the 2020 American Alliance of Museums Publication Contest.

ARTICLES (PEER REVIEWED)

“Fashion collections, collectors, and exhibitions in France, 1874-1900: historical imagination, the spectacular past, and the practice of restoration,” Fashion Theory, January 2018.

“The State of Fashion Studies in France : Past, Present, Future,” with Sophie Kurkdjian, The International Journal of Fashion Studies, vol. 5, no. 1, 2018, pp. 227–44.

“From the ‘union parfaite’ to the ‘union brisée’: The French couture industry and the midinettes during the Great War,” Costume (January, 2013): 28-44.

JOURNAL – EDITOR

French Historical Studies, special volume on ‘Fashion in French History,’ ed. Maude Bass-Krueger, Sophie Kurkdjian, Steven Zdatny, vol. 43, no. 2, 2020.

CHAPTERS IN BOOKS

“Is it Jewelry?,”in De Collectieve Collectie: Is het afval of erfgoed? (Turnhout: De Collectieve Collectie, 2021): p.94-103.

“Objects de savoir: la constitution d’une discipline – De la peinture historique à la rénovation des Beaux-Arts,” in Modes et vêtements: retour aux textes (Paris: Éditions du reel, 2020).

“Egypt in Fashion,” in Images of Egypt, edited by Mari Lending et al. (Pax, 2018): pp. 166–67.

ARTICLES (NON PEER REVIEWED)

With Sophie Kurkdjian. “Mode & Femmes, 1914-1918,” La Revue des Deux Mondes, (February 2018): 80-90.

With Sophie Kurkdjian. “La mode en temps de pénurie (1944-1951): Les journaux intimes d’une adolescente, Jane Aubaile,” Modes Pratiques, n2 (2017).

With Sophie Kurkdjian. “Copies et contrefaçons dans l’industrie de la mode entre 1914 et 1918,” published online June 1, 2017.

With Sophie Kurkdjian. “Lucien Vogel, éditeur patriotique de journaux de mode,” published online May 11, 2017.

With Sophie Kurkdjian. “Gabrielle Chanel et Jeanne Lanvin, deux couturières révélées par la Grande Guerre,” published online on May 3, 2017.

REVIEWS – EXHIBITIONS, BOOKS, CONFERENCES

“Review: Paris, Capital of Fashion,” French History, 2021.

“’Je t’aime, moi non plus,’ Compte-rendu du colloque ‘Échanges Franco-Allemands dans la Mode’ (Paris, 6-7 octobre et Berlin, 10-11 octobre, 2016)” in Regards Croisés, Revue Franco-Allemande 6 (janvier 2017). Online.

CATALOGUE ESSAYS AND ENTRIES

Catalogue du Musée de Meaux, C comme Collection.

– Catalogue entries on “Robe de deuil,” “capote type Poiret,” “douilles d’obus”

Georges Hoentschel: Collector, Designer, and Architect in Belle Époque Paris (New Haven: Yale University Press, 2013): 168-169, 174-175, 188-191, 232-239.     

– Catalogue entries on medieval sculpture, textiles for the Salon du Bois of the Union Centrale des Arts Décoratifs Pavilion at the Exposition Universelle, Paris, 1900, and woven and brocaded textiles samples from the Lyon manufacturer Prelle.

Staging Fashion, 1880-1920: Jane Hading, Lily Elsie, Billie Burke (New Haven: Yale University Press, 2012):

– Catalogue essays on “Billie Burke: Biography,” “Billie Burke and Fashion,” “Billie Burke and Photography,” “Jane Hading and Advertising,” and “Jane Hading and the Press”.

General Public

Google Arts and Culture

In 2018-2019, wrote a series of articles on fashion, art, and culture for Google Arts and Culture. You can find them all here.

Vogue Encyclopedia Online

In 2019, I wrote a series of articles on fashion for Vogue Online, including histories of the baseball cap, blazer, bra, corset, jeans, jumpsuit, stiletto, t-shirt, three-piece suit, trench coat, trouser suit, and wedding dress.